Apparatus for drafting patterns



(ModeL) P. J. KBLLOGG.

Apparatus for Drafting Patterns. No. 235,776. Patented-Dec. 21,1880;

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FRANK J. KELLOGG, OF FLINT, MICHIGAN.

APPARATUS FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 235,776, dated December 21, 1880.

Application filed July 10, 1880. (Model) To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK J. KELLOGG, of Flint, Genesee county, Michigan, have invented a new and Improved Scale for Cutting Garments, of which the following is a specification.

'The object of my invention is to furnish a graduated scale by which the waists of ladies dresses may be cut from measurement accurately and conveniently.

My invention consists in a combined rule and square made in form of a triangle, by which the pattern may be laid out, and in a curved scale for use with the triangle in obtaining the proper shapes for the neck and arm-holes.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figure l is a front view of the triangle constituting the combined square and scale. Fig. 2 represents the curved scale, and Figs. 3and 4 are diagrams illustratin g the method of laying out the patterns.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

The triangle shown in Fig. 1 may be made of wood, card-board, metal, or other suitable material. Upon the face of the triangle there are placed lines radiating from the angle K, which lines are for bust-measurement, and will be usually twenty-six in number, and are numbered, commencing at the center and alternating from one side to the other, from 23 to 46, to represent inches. There are also curved lines extending from the two shorter sides of the triangle to the center, which are for graduating the pattern to form. These lines are lettered from A to J, instead of being numbered, so as to save confusion, and the triangle i's'perforated at the intersection of these lines with the radiating lines, and at the termination of the radiating lines. At the longer side of the triangle, between the angles L M, there is a scale of inches and parts of inches, for use as a rule. The curve shown in Fig. 2 is marked with an inch-scale on one edge, from B to N, which is the portion used for obtaining the shape known as French fronts. The portion D O is used for obtaining the darts, and the portion at A is for shaping the neck and arm-holes, all as hereinafter described. i

For obtaining the front of a basque pattern (shown in Fig. 3) the method is as follows: The triangle is placed upon the paper with the angle K at the upper left-hand corner, two inches from the side and one inch from the top of the paper, at the point marked a. Two sides of a square are then to be marked on the paper by using the shorter sides of the triangle as a rule. The angle L is then to be placed at the point a and a line drawn down by the longer side of the triangle to point b-say sixteen and a half inches-for length of waist. The angle K is then placed at point I), and the bottom line of waist drawn by a line at right angles. The perforation at the angle K is then placed at point I) and the triangle moved to bring the proper line radiating from K on the bottom or waist line, according to bust-measuresay fortyinches and th e waistline dotted through the perforation numbered 40, as at 0. Angle K is then placed at upper left-hand corner and the bust-measure marked on top line, as at d. The front line is then marked at eight inches, as at l, and a back line made from point 0 eight inches up to pointf, at right angles to the bottom line, which gives length of waist under arm. A line is then drawn from point f toward point e, half the depth of chest-measure-say seven and a half inches-to g, and then at right angles upward to the top line, which gives the armpit. The bust-measure perforation 40 is then placed at g, with'the bust-measure line upon the back line of armpit, and a dot made through the perforation at the intersection of the bust-measure line and the line A, as at h. Then bringing bust-measure dot 40 at d and its line on k, and mark at A, dot to get point t. Then, by bringing the bust-measure (lot 40 at the point a, the points 7a 1 will be indicated by the A line dot.

To obtain the darts, place the perforation 40 at point c, with the line therefrom eXtending on the front line of pattern to the Waist, and mark the perforation on line 40, where line 0 crosses, as at m, for height at front line. The point a on back line, for height of rear dart, is obtained by placing perforation 40 at point f and dotting where line B' crosses the line, which makes the rear dart one line higher than the front.

To get upper point of dart, place the 4.0 perforation over point m, with the line therefrom extending to n, and mark where the lines E I cross, which gives the points 0 p. The space for darts at bottom is then obtained by placing the bust-measure line on the waistline, with the perforation 40 at b, and dotting the intersections of lines B, F, G, and J, for the points q a" s t.

The pattern being laid out thus in form by measurement, the curved scale is to be used. To get neck shape, place point A at l on pattern, with the edge of the curve crossing point k, and draw the line, as shown. For the shoulder, place point B on the curve at point 70 on pattern, with the edge extending over point i, and draw the line 76 i. For the armhole line, place point A of curve at point It on pattern, with the line AN of the curve extending to i. The curve must be turned with the scale downward to obtain this line. For the dart lines, the inner edge of the curve is used from the point D toward 0, the pointD being placed at 0 and 19. To obtain the curve of back line 0 f, the edge of the curve from B to N is used, the point B being placed at f.

To get line for French front, the point at is first obtained by carryin g the Waist-line to the front one-half inch and down the same distance, and a line then drawn from u to o. The point B of the curve is then placed at l and a line drawn from Z to n, which gives the French front.

The lower part of the basque and the back of the waist (shown in Fig. 3) may be readily shaped in the same manner by the triangle and curved scale.

These devices save both time and labor in cutting garments, and insure perfect fitting.

Having thus described my invention I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent The scale for cutting garments, consisting of the triangle shown in Fig. 1, provided with the radiating bust measure lines, with the curved cross-lines A to J, and perforated at the intersections of the cross-lines and at the terminus of the radial lines, substantially as shown and described.

MRS. FRANK J. KELLOGG.

Witnesses:

I. S. MOORE, J. W. HAMMOND. 

